A FESTIVE FROZEN DELIGHT: THE NESSELRODE PUDDING

by Jean-Baptiste Chastand

For a show-stopping dessert this holiday season, look no further than a classic Nesselrode pudding. This rich, frozen confection, packed with brandy-soaked fruits, toasted nuts, and the deep, earthy flavor of chestnuts, makes for an unforgettable centerpiece.

While often associated with the famed chef Antonin CarĂªme, historical accounts suggest the creation was actually the work of a chef serving a Russian diplomat. The original presentation involved a warm, alcoholic custard sauce, but the pudding is decadent enough to stand gloriously on its own.

Preparation Time: 15 minutes, plus overnight soaking
Cooking Time: 20 minutes
Freezing Time: Minimum 2 hours
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
125g dried currants, raisins, or sultanas
50g quality candied citrus peel, finely chopped
75ml sweet liqueur such as maraschino, brandy, or orange liqueur
1 vanilla pod, split, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
600ml whipping cream
4 large egg yolks
50g caster sugar (adjust to taste)
45g flaked almonds
125g cooked, peeled chestnuts or unsweetened chestnut puree

Method:

1. Prepare the Fruit: Combine the dried fruit and candied peel in a bowl. Pour the chosen liqueur over them, ensuring they are well coated. Cover and leave to soak for several hours, preferably overnight.

2. Infuse the Cream: About an hour before you begin, scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod. Place both the seeds and the empty pod into a saucepan with the whipping cream. Heat gently until it just begins to simmer, then remove from the heat. Allow the vanilla to infuse as the cream cools. (If using vanilla extract, it will be added later.)

3. Make the Custard Base: Place the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl. Whisk in the caster sugar until pale and slightly thickened. Re-warm the cream mixture to a simmer. Slowly pour the hot cream into the egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent curdling. Return the combined mixture to the saucepan.

4. Cook the Custard: Over low heat, cook the custard, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, until it thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. A finger drawn through it should leave a clear path. Immediately transfer the pan to a sink or bowl of cold water to halt the cooking and cool it quickly.

5. Toast the Almonds: While the custard cools, toast the flaked almonds in a dry frying pan over medium heat until fragrant and lightly golden. Set aside.

6. Prepare the Chestnut Base: Drain the soaked fruit, reserving the liqueur. If using whole chestnuts, process them in a food processor until they form a coarse powder. Add the reserved soaking liqueur to the chestnut powder and blend again until a creamy paste forms. If the mixture is too thick, a tablespoon of the cooled custard can help loosen it. If using ready-made chestnut puree, simply stir the liqueur into it.

7. Combine and Freeze: In a large bowl, whisk the chestnut cream into the fully cooled custard until smooth. Churn the mixture in an ice cream maker until it reaches a thick, soft-serve consistency. Without a machine, pour it into a freezer-safe container, cover, and freeze. After one hour, beat vigorously with electric beaters or a sturdy spoon to break up ice crystals. Repeat this process every 30 minutes until the mixture is thick and semi-solid.

8. Add Mix-Ins and Set: Once the ice cream base is semi-frozen, fold in the drained fruit and toasted almonds until evenly distributed. Line a 1-litre pudding basin or loaf tin with cling film. Spoon in the mixture, pressing down firmly. Fold the overhanging cling film over the top to seal. Freeze for at least two hours, or until completely solid. The pudding can be made up to two weeks in advance.

9. To Serve: Briefly dip the mould into hot water. Invert it onto a serving plate and carefully lift away the mould and cling film. Decorate with a festive sprig of holly, rosemary, or a candle for a truly celebratory presentation.

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